The SBT MK1 bush knife is now selling for $200.00 (as of April 1, 2009) + $10.00 S&H to the continental US, more for foreign orders. This price increase only applies to orders taken after the end of March, 2009.

 

You have a choice of A2 ,O1 or CPM 3V in blade steel, all with an Rc hardness of  58.5-60.

 

A2 is about 10-20% tougher than O1 and will hold an edge a little longer. O1 will be slightly easier to sharpen and also will allow the user to strike a spark off the spine using the flint and steel method of fire lighting ( A2 has a little too much alloy to get a good spark). Since A2 has a higher chromium content it will be a little more stain resistant than O1, however both will rust if not wiped down after use or abused. Both are excellent knife steels and will give you good service.

CPM 3V is a very tough tool steel made by the Crucible Particle Metallurgy process. 3V is about 100% tougher than A2 or O1 and has better rust preventative characteristics than either, but is not classified as a stainless steel. With this toughness comes higher cost and more difficulty in sharpening with natural stones though. As with A2 you will be unable to derive a spark from 3V by the flint and steel method. If you are in need of a very strong edge, are abusive to your equipment, or want a high tech steel and don't mind paying extra ($20 over the standard price) then this may be the steel for you. Just remember, high tech steels are not panaceas and will never replace good sense and properly developed skill on the part of the user. 

 

Handle material choices include canvas Micarta in tan, green, and black. Also linen Micarta in red.  The canvas leaves a slightly better texture than the linen, at least to my hand but all can be sanded with medium grit paper periodically to bring back some texture. 

 

The knife can be made with either one or two lanyard holes. I have offered three holers in the past but in my opinion the middle hole doesn't add much application. Plus a third bolt in its place will add more durability to the handle. So no more three hole pattern handles, and since I make the knives I decide what goes!! 

 

Mors Kochanski has also suggested drilling a shearing hole near the tip of the blade where you insert a nail or pin to act as a pivot point. When set up properly the knife is used in a shearing action similar to a flat bed paper cutter for cutting up multiples of whatever one might need such as a bunch of toggles for buttons, tarp tie downs etc. or for processing large quantities of food items.

 

The sheath is made of heavy cow hide and formed into a Scandinavian style sheath that can be used either as a neck sheath or attached to a belt right or left side. The sheath is dyed and then dipped into melted bees wax making the leather stiff and more water resistant.

 

This photo shows the handle colors (on a few early testers) and sheath construction.

 

Knife Specifications :

                     

knife length            8.5 inches      21.5 cm

blade width            1 inch             2.6 cm

blade length           4.25 inches    10.5 cm

blade thickness      .125 inches    .3cm

handle length         4.25               10.5 cm

handle width          1.125 inches   2.85 cm

handle thickness     .85 inches     2.2 cm

knife wt.                 6.4 oz.          185 g average

sheath wt.              2.8 oz           80 g average

 

Pummel plates are TIG welded to the knife tang and scales are attached with an industrial two part epoxy and Corby style bolts.

 

 

If you have any further questions just holler and I'll do what I can to answer them.

Thanks for your interest in Skookum Bush Tool knives,

 

Rod

 

 

Contact me, via e-mail at  rod@skookumbushtool.com

If you decide to order a knife, send me the specifications you want ( steel choice, handle color, and preference for a shearing hole or not, etc.) a mailing address, email, and a phone number .  I do NOT take deposits, but will contact you for payment (by Pay Pal or money order) once your knife is finished.*  The current back order is ten to twelve+ months as of April 1, 2009.  

*Since I take no money up front, you have 14 days to pay after notification of order completion. Unpaid orders will be offered for sale to others, and your next order will go to the bottom of the list.

Skookum Bush Tool Company reserves the right to make changes at any time and of any nature to its products including but not limited to price, design, shipping, and handling.

 

Some notes on the so-called "scandi grind" bevel and SBT knives.

This type of bevel has superior wood carving characteristics compared to other types of bevels. However, it is more prone to edge rolling (compared to thicker, secondary bevel type bevels) because of the sinuous nature of the bevel if the edge is not prepped properly or is being abused. Steel is just so strong and even CPM 3V will tolerate just so much when you consider how thin the actual cutting edge is.

The SBT MK1 leaves my shop with a sharp edge that I finish on the grinder with a well worn 600 grit belt. This edge will shave hair but I do not consider it a working edge just yet. There will most likely be a very fine wire edge remaining, this is especially true with A2. This is where the new owner comes in. When the new knife is received the owner should put the knife to a strop and work the edge until the  wire is removed. The more stropping you do the more of a convex edge will occur. This slight convex edge will increase the strength of the actual cutting edge without inhibiting the superior carving of the scandi flat grind bevel ( the amount of convexity created will be very small). Another option is to create a micro bevel by going back to the honing stone, tipping the edge up another 15-20 degrees beyond the bevel face and put ten-fifteen strokes on each side of the edge and go back to the strop. This will give you a stronger general purpose edge. Remember, these are general suggestions, knife makers have no control over the skill levels of the user and their sharpening equipment. The user will need to work out their own program.

Also, when sharpening a scandi bevel, make sure you take the individual steps of each grit to completion. We tend to get in a hurry and not finish each step, especially the final steps of honing and stropping. If you follow through with each step and strop until the bevel shines, you will most likely have a very sharp and durable edge that will be the envy of all who see it!

So the next time you are having problems with an edge folding over, regardless of make, reassess your sharpening program first before you grab your pitch fork and start poking at the maker.

Thanks and happy cutting,

Rod